Gasless in the Carolinas

Fayetville Gas

Roadtrip!” Visions of Chevy Chase in National Lampoon’s Vacation and John Belushi’s scream of “Roadtrip!” in Animal House jumped into my consciousness. The reality was a 1,300 mile car trip up the I-95 to a bat mitzvah in New Jersey. Armed with Google Maps, hotel booking websites,  speed trap detectors,  streaming music services, several bags of M and M’s and 14 gallons of gasoline filling the tank assured me of a well-planned trip that could not be marred with concern or interruption.  I guided the Subaru SUV onto the steaming Florida Highway Interstate and headed North. 

Rumbling past Jacksonville (Named for Andrew Jackson, who knew?) and over the St. Mary’s River into Georgia, the motels and the Loblolly Pines blurred together as we approached the South Carolina state line. A few hundred miles later, my smart car, uttered in a distinguished Bostonian accent, “your fuel levels are low, shall I search for a gas station?” I pushed mute, left the I-95 in Fayetteville and was ready for a quick fill up in the nearest Circle K. Soon enough, a station appeared that was empty of cars but thoughtfully the pump handles were ensconced with plastic. This was a nice Covid protection, I thought. As I squeezed the pump handle with ever increasing pressure, the fuel gauge failed to engage.  My wife stuck her head out of the passenger side of the window, and exclaimed in that know-it-all-tone, “The plastic on the handle means they are out of gas. I reminded you 200 miles ago that a computer hack shut down the Colonial Pipeline and gas would be scare in the Carolinas.”  “It’s a big town, we’ll find gas,” I stammered. Confident that all that fracking, gulf oil reserves and the assurances of Colonial Pipeline execs would lead to a full tank down the road. 

My swagger started to fracture after four empty stations and a “skull and crossbones” emoji appeared near the gas gauge. Limping into a Red Roof Inn on less than one gallon, I anticipated a long layover, minutes from Fort Bragg and the U.S. Army Special Operation Command. Was there a way out? Scrolling down GasBuddy, multiple stations appeared with a slash across the gas tank indicating dead pumps.   Logging off the internet and onto the sidewalk, we hiked a mile up to the nearest 7-11 in search of up-to-date information on gas shipments.  My wife brought a wad of 20s with her in case bribing would be required. “A tanker was spotted five miles away heading toward a Circle K,” the cashier said in a slow Southern drawl. We coasted to our destination and got in line with 50 other cars desperately fighting for fuel. The hour wait was filled with mathematics and history flashbacks. What is the fuel volume delivered by the standard tanker divided by the autos ahead of us?   Memories of the Arab Oil Embargo and waiting for my 1/2 tank of gas with my even license plate was a returning visual in my mind.  Now, 43 years later, I could not think of how I would tell my younger self that I would be gas deficient four decades later due to rogue computer hackers. The moment had arrived, the pump inserted and the sweet distilled hydrocarbon liquid flowed into the tank. I peered to the side and saw a guy in military fatigues pumping gas into his Mustang. Could Special Ops storm Russia and unplug every hacking computer network? Not so easy. Another thought entered my mind from my pumping experience: the leaf controlled the dinosaur kingdom millions of years ago and now oil and gas clearly controlled a trip up the Eastern Coast and dictated our potential absence or presence at a bat mitzvah.

We rolled out of the Carolinas the following morning while tracking the gas gauge every 50 miles and filling up before the fuel gauge got below 3/4. Never take gas for granted!  Shortages of gas delivery and panic buying is a real American response. Perhaps, I thought in a rare moment of self-reflection, i should listen to my wife (who did tell me in December 2019 that a global pandemic was about to occur from a virus found in Wuhan China) regarding human behavior and its defensive responses under pressure and fear. Finally, bring on the electric cars!

Traveling In Pandemic Times

My parents provided me with the usual survival tactics in childhood: “don’t put your finger in the electric socket; “don’t play stickball in a busy street;” “look both ways when crossing the street;” “put a jacket on to prevent pneumonia.” But no pandemic advice. My father, born in 1921, had missed out on the Great Influenza pandemic by 3 years. He survived the depression, World War II, the Korean War, The Cold War and Stagflation, but he had no pandemic real world experience. 

Mastering COVID avoidance was easy. I didn’t go out the front door. I wiped down every delivery with Clorox wipes. I interrogated delivery workers at the front door from 6 feet away. I masked up and social distanced with friends who took science and survival seriously. My only brush with the outside world was beamed in with cable news and internet pictures.

With viral mRNA inoculated twice into my arm, the lure of travel beckoned and with it the reality and trepidation of return to the unknown. What would airports, big cities, seeing friends and family be like after a monastic-like life for almost a year?

Armed with an  N95, surgical mask and face shield barrier, I pushed the UBER request on my app for a ride to the airport. “Please roll down the front and back windows for cross ventilation,” I directed the driver, thinking viral kinetics and air exchange. He didn’t blink an eye. At the airport, Homeland Security officers donned face shields and stood behind window barriers. Driver license identity was self-swiped at a distance. The Starbuck’s line imprints on the floor were spaced 6 feet apart and baristas looked like they were part of a surgical OR team. Sipping coffee, a learned skill honed in the past, became a conundrum when faced with two masks blocking the oral route. Should I slip the masks down or up? Should I replace the mask after each sip? Should I take the masks off completely? Should I just gulp the coffee quickly and then replace the mask? Thoughts of Dr. Fauci and the CDC flashed through my head: 10 minutes of exposure, high viral load, ventilation and symptomatic patients. I headed to the far reaches of the airport terminal, separated myself from the unmasked masses, and bolted the coffee down, nearly incurring mouth burns.

Boarding the plane entered me into a strange world. The cheap seats in the back of the plane got first dibs on boarding to limit contact time. Finally, seated, I breathed a sigh of relief when the hotly debated middle seat vacancy was enforced. Anxiety returned, as the flight attendants distributed the snacks. Was it worth unmasking for a granola bar and a small package of chips? The lure of Pringles was too great and I succumbed to temptation, all the while contemplating my eulogy, “he gave his life for a a few plain potato chips.” 

The plane hovered over LaGuardia Airport awaiting the final approach. Built on a garbage dump used for Brooklyn’s excess waste, I pondered the early Queen’s denizens grappling over their microbe challenge: Salmonella and Shigella. The plane landed, the  gate opened and I marched single file, 6 feet apart, masked and into the terminal where multiple, camouflaged clad military awaited me. Did I take the wrong flight and land in Mogadishu, Somalia? No, New York City, where Andrew Cuomo’s quarantine rules were being enforced against the blasé non-Northeastern states where I was now residing. It seemed surreal to be approached by a military serviceman and servicewoman who were both armed with weapons and asked if I had a Covid 19 PCR test performed in the last 72 hours, and if so, what was the result? Things had changed.

After claiming my luggage, I entered a NYC taxi cab to the final push to Manhattan. As I gazed upon the the facial scowl of our driver, I thought it best not to bring up the cross ventilation directions again. As I entered FDR Drive, I fixated on the credit card swipe. Can COVID exist on the card? Can I Clorox the gap? “What would Dr. Fauci do?”

Walking in Manhattan, I could immediately sense the gravity and public health compliance of the borough. This pandemic was not some abstract chyron endlessly streaming on a CNN telecast. Families and friends had been stricken with serious illness and death at the beginning of the pandemic and this crystallized the importance of public health measures. Multiple restaurants had outdoor seating ensconced within a plastic dome. At night, the yellow and purple lighting from restaurant isolation tables provided an extra-terrestrial feel. 

The ordeal was worth it after ending a year absence from family. Hugging my fully vaccinated son and and elbow bumping my unvaccinated son and daughter-in-law in the social distancing expanse of Prospect Park (thank you ,Frederick Law Olmstead) was priceless.

Many years from now, when my grandchildren gather around me and ask about the Pandemic, I’ll reply, you have to carefully peel off your N-95 mask just like this, and then get the Starbucks lid under the face shield that protects your mask and..…”

Portland Exposed

Asian Dumplings from Afuri Ramen and Dumplings

Xylophone Recital at the Trailblazer Game

Multnomah Falls

One of the perks of retirement is opening up a map, seeing a destination you’ve never been to and then booking it. I had never been to Portland and was curious if it’s reputation as a city of second chances, a foodie haven, a city planning Mecca or a hiking haven was reality. So with the help of Costco Travel Services, I journeyed to the Pacific Northwest for a fact finding mission. 

After touching down at the Portland Airport, the expected nightmare of big city surface transportation began. Would it be Uber/Lyft at a cost approaching the price of the plane ticket or a New York City Taxi $80-$100 price from JFK/Newark to Manhattan? To my surprise, the trip to the inner city involved use of the ubiquitous light rail (MAX). At $1.25 for a senior citizen and $2.50 for an adult it allowed a stress free ½ hour commute close to the doorstep of our hotel in downtown Portland. The light rail went about to every important destination in the city environs. The Embassy Suites was our destination abode. Formerly, The Multnomah Hotel, it had hosted the iconic Elvis Presley, Charles Lindbergh and all presidents from Teddy Roosevelt to Richard Nixon.

The sign “Keep Portland Weird” was a few blocks from the hotel and it wasn’t long before I encountered support for its message. It was on a subsequent rail experience, an elderly male with a thinning hairline and walker entered our car clutching a flask of vodka. “I honor the Ten Commandments but I can’t love my neighbor more than myself,” he exclaimed as he swigged from his flask. A dark haired man with an earring engaged him in debate of the Ten Commandments, later joined by a guy carting a bicycle on the train who also participated. As the vodka bottle was passed around to the discussants, I realized I was witnessing a Portland exclusive.

The cuisine in downtown Portland was eclectic but stellar. As craft beer had revitalized the brewing industry, Voodoo Donuts had the imprimatur of craft donuts. I went into dessert nirvana with “Old Dirty Bastard,” a donut with fudge and peanut butter capped with an Oreo-cookie dusting. The dumplings at Afuri Ramen and Dumpling, a Tokyo based Ramen restaurant were also divine. The noodle experience was accompanied with a peak into the future because artificial intelligent iPads substituted for waiters. 

To our delight, the Trailblazers were at home hosting the San Antonio Spurs in our second day in Portland. I had always wondered why my Lakers had such a difficult time in Portland, even when they had championship caliber teams. A trip to the Moda Center provided some clues. It was a Thursday night and the place was packed. A portly fan two rows up started a “Let’s Go Blazers” chant well before the singing of the national anthem. The crowd was warmed up with a swarm of 5th graders playing rhythm xylophone followed by the governor of Oregon presenting a certificate of appreciation to the team on its 50th year anniversary. The game was close and the fans were so vocal it felt like game 7 of the NBA Finals. On our light rail trip back to the hotel, a long term fan explained the phenomena in personal terms. “I’m a recovering alcoholic, been sober for 7 years and a ticket holder that long. The basketball team is all we have.” 

As a neophyte Portland tourist, the next stop was a popular destination, the Pittock Mansion. This was an early 20th century home built by Henry Pittock, the successful editor of the Oregonian. Overlooking the Williamette River and surrounded by Oregonian Pines, it was a beacon of 20th century ingenuity and a magnificent home. While I was wandering past the fine silks, wondered how a newspaper editor could amass a fortune. I came across a clue. Henry Winslow Corbett, the senator from Oregon, had provided a cash infusion to the paper in 1872 averting bankruptcy and temporarily taking control of the city newspaper. Corbett made his initial fortune by selling farm equipment and dry goods to the farmers and families newly arrived from the Oregon Trail. When the San Francisco merchants raised their prices during the California Gold Rush, Corbett was able to undercut their prices and achieve market share. You could say he was the Pacific Northwest Walmart of the 19th century! He used the paper’s influence to back  the successful campaign of Rutherford B. Hayes, the Republican candidate for President in 1876. With political influence, both Corbett and Pittock went on to amass a fortune in banking and real estate.

The Portland experience was not complete until we took an excursion down the Columbia River Gorge. Multiple waterfalls grace the shoulders of the Columbia River Scenic Highway. We stopped at the 627 foot Multnomah Falls, the largest waterfall in Oregon. It was spotted by Lewis and Clark in 1805 and does not disappoint. Hiking was challenging during the winter due to muddy trails but swathed in a conifer blanket, the ascent was still exhilarating.

If natural beauty, great food, a workable transit system and NBA basketball is your thing, I encourage you to seek out the Portland high.