Pedaling Through Life

I can still picture it.

It was bright red, with white handlebars and fat black tires. My first tricycle. It probably didn’t cost much, but to a four-year-old growing up in Whitestone, Queens, it was freedom painted crimson.

Then came my first “real” bicycle—a Huffy.

It wasn’t a Schwinn.

Back then, Schwinn was the Cadillac of bicycles. Every kid wanted one. My family couldn’t afford it, and at the time I noticed. Looking back now, I realize something more important: my Huffy took me everywhere a Schwinn would have. Childhood doesn’t care what badge is on the frame.

Like every aspiring cyclist, I began with training wheels, rocking awkwardly from side to side, convinced I was riding while those little wheels quietly prevented disaster.

My father would jog beside me, one hand steadying the seat while I pedaled with all my might. One day the training wheels were gone, and so was his hand. I didn’t realize he had let go until I looked back and saw him smiling from halfway down the block.

I was riding.

“I’m a man,” I probably thought, despite being about seven years old.

The greatest expedition of my young life followed soon afterward.

I pedaled completely around our block in Whitestone by myself. By today’s standards it was only a few city streets. To me, it was Magellan circumnavigating the globe. The world had suddenly become larger—and somehow more reachable.

Soon my bicycle became transportation, independence, and social network all rolled into one.

My friends and I rode to the neighborhood candy store to see whether the newest Superman comic had arrived. We clipped baseball cards into our spokes to imitate motorcycle engines. Second string players became willing sacrifices.

But Mickey Mantle?

Never.

Even a kid knew there were some things too valuable to destroy.

As the years passed, bicycles became less about neighborhoods and more about horizons.

Friends talked me into riding the Tecate-to-Ensenada ride in Mexico. By the finish my quadriceps were staging a revolt, but the long descent toward the coast made every painful pedal stroke worthwhile. Recovery, naturally, occurred at Señor Frog’s with a well-earned cerveza that tasted suspiciously like modern sports medicine.

Years later I found myself riding along California’s Highway 1 through Del Mar and Santa Barbara. My cycling nutrition was elegantly simple: a granola bar, a Mountain Dew, and youthful confidence that somehow everything would work out.

Then came one of life’s greatest pleasures—watching my own sons discover the same freedom that a bicycle had given me decades earlier. My older son chose independence over convenience, pedaling uphill to high school each morning while the school bus rolled past. The climb built stronger legs, but I suspect it also built character. My younger son learned under somewhat more memorable circumstances. His classroom was a narrow paved trail through the Everglades, bordered on both sides by alligator-infested water. There was little room for wobbling, no luxury of wide-open grassy fields. He learned to ride straight as an arrow, with remarkable focus and determination. Looking back, I sometimes wonder whether the alligators were simply excellent cycling instructors. Fortunately, they never had to give a practical demonstration.

Forty years after those California rides, I found myself cycling again—this time with Backroads through Spain and Portugal.

The bicycle had evolved.

So had I.

Gone was the heavy steel frame, replaced by a featherweight titanium e-bike whose discreet battery quietly compensated for muscles that no longer recovered overnight.

Gone were the convenience-store snacks.

Now lunch featured local cheeses, smoked salmon, crusty bread dipped in peppery olive oil, remarkable wines, and leisurely conversations overlooking vineyards that had been producing grapes for centuries.

The scenery had changed from suburban Queens to medieval villages.

The engine had changed from youthful legs to lithium-ion batteries.

But the feeling was exactly the same.

Freedom.

There’s something poetic about the evolution of the bicycle itself.

From the towering, precarious Penny-farthing—with its enormous front wheel daring riders to pitch headfirst onto cobblestones—to today’s marvels of titanium and carbon fiber, hydraulic disc brakes, electronic shifting, and electric assist, every generation has made cycling lighter, safer, faster, and more accessible. The bicycle may be one of humanity’s most beautifully refined inventions—an elegant machine that has continuously improved without ever losing its essential simplicity.

It even helped launch another revolution.

Before they conquered the skies, Orville and Wilbur Wright owned and operated a bicycle shop in Dayton, Ohio. Building and repairing bicycles taught them precision machining, balance, lightweight construction, and steering dynamics—the very skills that ultimately allowed them to solve the problem of human flight. It seems fitting that humanity learned to balance on two wheels before learning to soar on two wings.

As I look back, I realize bicycles have quietly marked every chapter of my life.

They taught me balance before I understood the word.

They gave me independence before I had a driver’s license.

They carried me toward friendships, adventures, and discoveries that still make me smile decades later.

They became a bridge between generations, carrying first a little boy around a block in Whitestone, then a young man across Mexico and California, then my own sons toward their independence, and finally an aging physician through the vineyards and ancient villages of Europe.

Today, with a little help from modern technology—and an electric motor wise enough to ignore my birth certificate—I continue to pedal.

Not as fast.

Not as far under my own power.

But perhaps with greater appreciation.

The bicycle has never really been about getting from one place to another.

It has always been about freedom, curiosity, and the quiet joy of discovering what lies around the next bend.

For nearly eight decades, it has carried me through life.

And I’m not finished riding yet.

Lessons from Lisbon, Madrid and Madison Square Garden

What Makes a Civilization Great?

What the Knicks and the Iberian Peninsula Teach About Greatness

As I watched the New York Knicks march toward a championship, I found myself thinking less about basketball and more about history.
Championships are often explained through the mythology of the superstar. We celebrate the dominant scorer, the transcendent athlete, the singular genius who carries everyone else to glory.
Yet the Knicks offered a different lesson.
Jalen Brunson was unquestionably their leader, but this was not a one-man team. Their success depended on relationships forged years earlier at Villanova. These were players who trusted one another instinctively, who understood where teammates would be before they arrived, and who were willing to sacrifice statistics, shots, and even money for a larger goal.
Brunson famously left substantial money on the table to help the organization assemble a deeper roster. In a professional sports world often defined by maximizing individual gain, he chose collective success.
The result was not merely a winning team. It was a cooperative enterprise. And history suggests that great civilizations are built the exact same way.

The Chemistry of Convivencia

During our recent trip through Spain and Portugal, I was struck by how often the story of Iberian greatness was actually a story of collaboration among very different peoples.
Long before the Inquisition, the Iberian Peninsula became the world’s vibrant center of learning. This didn’t happen because one culture triumphed over another, but because multiple cultures interacted in a unique ecosystem of coexistence, or Convivencia.

  • Romans contributed law, infrastructure, and language.
  • Muslim scholars brought radical advances in mathematics, navigation, and agriculture while preserving Greek philosophy.
  • Christian kingdoms eventually provided the political framework that inherited this vast reservoir of knowledge.
    But it was the region’s Jewish scholars and statesmen who often served as the vital connective tissue—the ultimate “glue guys” of the Mediterranean world—functioning as the translators, diplomats, scientists, and financial administrators who made the system run.

Hasdai ibn Shaprut (c. 915–970): The Ultimate Catalyst In the Golden Age of Córdoba, Ibn Shaprut served as a physician, translator, and foreign minister to the Caliph. He utilized his multi-linguistic mastery to translate the famous medical texts of Dioscorides into Arabic, establishing Iberia as Europe’s medical capital. As a diplomat, he negotiated complex alliances between Muslim rulers and Christian monarchs, proving that intellectual and political synthesis was the true engine of Iberian prosperity.

The Knowledge Enablers

When we look closer at the Golden Age of Spain and Portugal, the intellectual peaks were achieved not through isolation, but through an intentional exchange of ideas.
Consider Moses Maimonides (1138–1204), born in Córdoba. While globally revered as a towering rabbi and philosopher, Maimonides was also a brilliant physician who wrote extensively on hygiene, pharmacology, and psychology. His philosophical masterpiece, The Guide for the Perplexed, sought to harmonize Aristotelian science with divine revelation. His works were eagerly read not just by Jews, but by Christian thinkers like Thomas Aquinas and Muslim scholars alike, fueling the intellectual fire of the entire continent.
This collaboration yielded practical, world-changing technology. The famous translation schools of Toledo transformed Europe by turning ancient Greek and Arabic texts into Latin. Suddenly, Aristotle, Galen, and Ptolemy were available to a continent hungry for knowledge.
When it came to the Age of Exploration, Portugal’s maritime empire was literally guided by Jewish science:

[Jewish & Islamic Astronomical Data] 
               │
               ▼
   [The Perpetual Almanac] (Abraham Zacuto)
               │
               ▼
[Advanced Cartography & Astrolabes]
               │
               ▼
  [Global Maritime Exploration]

The legendary astronomer and mathematician Abraham Zacuto (1452–1515) revolutionized navigation. His life’s work, The Perpetual Almanac, alongside his improvements to the copper astrolabe, allowed sailors to determine their latitude at sea using the sun rather than the stars.
Without Zacuto’s calculations and personal consultations, there might have been no Vasco da Gama reaching India, no Pedro Álvares Cabral reaching Brazil, and no Portuguese trading empire stretching from Africa to Asia.
The remarkable achievements of Spain and Portugal were not products of isolation. They were products of connection.

The Cost of Exclusion

Yet history also reveals how fragile such success can be. Beginning in the late fifteenth century, Spain and Portugal gradually abandoned the very conditions that had fueled their rise.
The expulsion of the Jews in 1492 systematically removed the most educated, skilled, and commercially connected citizens from the peninsula. Abraham Zacuto himself was forced to flee to Lisbon, and later Tunis, taking his brilliant mind away from the Iberian sphere.
This purge of human capital soon stretched from the cities to the fields. In the 1520s, the Spanish Crown banned Islam entirely, forcing the remaining Moorish population to convert or flee. These Morisco communities comprised the foundational backbone of Spain’s agricultural sector. For generations, they had engineered and maintained highly sophisticated, intricate systems of irrigation, terracing, and water management that kept the arid landscapes of Valencia and Andalusia incredibly fertile.
When this specialized expertise was systematically uprooted and driven out, the consequences were immediate and devastating. The complex canal networks fell into disrepair, agricultural productivity plummeted, and once-abundant yields dropped dramatically. Spain quickly found that you cannot exile your primary food producers without paying a severe price; as the agricultural infrastructure collapsed, localized famines began to creep across the countryside.

[Forced Conversion/Exile of Moorish Peasantry (1520s)]
                         │
                         ▼
      [Collapse of Sophisticated Irrigation Networks]
                         │
                         ▼
           [Severe Drop in Agricultural Yields]
                         │
                         ▼
             [Creeping Famine and Depopulation]

At the exact same time, enormous quantities of silver were flowing into Spain and Portugal from the Americas. Instead of stimulating innovation, this easy wealth reduced incentives to develop domestic industry or rebuild the shattered farming sector. The broad lesson remains: easy wealth can quickly become a substitute for creativity.
Meanwhile, nations such as the Netherlands and Great Britain adopted the exact playbook that had once made Iberia successful. They welcomed displaced Jewish merchants and skilled laborers, encouraged innovation, expanded scientific inquiry, and developed institutions that rewarded enterprise.
Leadership shifted. The world’s center of gravity moved northward.

The Contemporary Question

History does not repeat itself exactly, but it often rhymes.
Today, the United States remains the most innovative nation on earth. Our universities attract talented students from every continent. Our laboratories lead scientific discovery. Our entrepreneurs continue to create technologies that reshape the world.
But these strengths depend on openness.
Scientific progress thrives on collaboration. Medical breakthroughs emerge from international networks of researchers. Innovation accelerates when people with different experiences, perspectives, and skills work together toward common goals.
When nations become fearful of outsiders, suspicious of rigorous inquiry, or hostile to global intellectual exchange, they risk weakening the very forces that created their success.
The lesson of the Knicks is surprisingly similar to the lesson of pre-Inquisition Iberia. Greatness is rarely the product of a single star, or a single insular culture.
Whether in basketball, science, business, or civilization itself, success emerges from cooperation. The most successful teams are not always the ones with the highest raw talent; they are the ones that best combine talent, trust, shared purpose, and a willingness to sacrifice individual advantage for collective achievement.
Civilizations are no different.
The question facing every great nation is whether it will continue attracting talent, embracing knowledge, and building institutions that encourage cooperation—or whether it will retreat into exclusion and self-congratulation.
The Knicks answered that question on the basketball court. History answered it centuries ago.
The question now is whether we are paying attention.

What Makes Us Human: Cooperation, Knowledge, and the Will to Survive

In the vast story of life on Earth, humans are primates—but not just any primates. We don’t outmatch our cousins in strength, speed, or sharp claws. What sets us apart is something subtler and far more powerful: the ability to learn from one another, to share knowledge, and to cooperate. That’s what has allowed us to inhabit virtually every environment on the planet—from sun-scorched deserts to icy tundra, from megacities to rainforests.

I was reminded of this truth in the most unexpected place: traveling to Southwestern Uganda and standing mere feet from a 400-pound silverback gorilla in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. His species split from our evolutionary lineage roughly eight million years ago. The mountain gorillas have remained in the forest, perfectly suited to a single ecological niche. We, by contrast, left the trees behind—and never stopped moving.

But what enabled that journey wasn’t just intelligence. Intelligence without connection doesn’t scale. The secret to our success is shared wisdom.

History offers a cautionary tale. In 1861, the British explorers Burke and Wills attempted to cross the Australian continent from south to north. They dismissed the hard-won survival knowledge of Aboriginal Australians, particularly around the preparation of nardoo seeds. Eaten raw, nardoo contains thiaminase, an enzyme that destroys vitamin B1. The explorers suffered and died of beri-beri—not because survival knowledge was unavailable, but because they refused to accept it. Ignorance wasn’t fatal—arrogance was.

Now contrast that with our modern trek through East Africa—an exercise in cooperative survival:

Medicine as shared defense: Vaccinations against yellow fever, permethrin-treated clothes, Malarone tablets, and a discreet cache of Imodium. All forged through centuries of global collaboration in labs and clinics.

Engineering on four wheels: Our Toyota Land Cruisers tackled cratered dirt roads like lunar rovers. A tribute to mechanical ingenuity, tire durability, and suspension systems that earned their pay.

Linguistic diplomacy: Our guide—part biologist, part gorilla whisperer—spoke in deep, rumbling grunts to soothe a nearby silverback. When you’re five feet from a primate that could turn you into a protein shake, fluency in Silverbackese is a highly valued skill.

Microbial truce via refrigeration: Cold milk, safe cheese, and preserved fruit—unsung heroes in the war against gastrointestinal mutiny.

Batwa porters, forest-born navigators: Descendants of Bwindi’s original inhabitants, the Batwa led us with quiet confidence. They knew every slippery root, every hidden turn, every slope disguised as flat ground. Without them, we might still be in the forest, tangled in vines and excuses.

Security with edge: Kalashnikovs swung from the shoulders of armed guards like grim fashion statements. Their presence reminded us that peace, here, is maintained—not assumed. Just across the border lies Congo, and with it, a long shadow of past conflict. In Bwindi, tranquility often travels with a trigger finger.

The mountain gorillas remain tied to one patch of Earth, thriving in their ancient rhythm. We humans ventured far because we learned to listen—to guides, to science, to experience, and sometimes, finally, to each other.

We are primates. But we are the cooperative primates. The ones who teach, imitate, argue, share, and adapt.

And that—more than any tool or gene—has made us human.

The Seasons of Scams: Springtime for the Swindlers

There used to be four seasons: winter, spring, summer, and fall. Now we’ve added a fifth—scam season—and apparently, it runs year-round. The flowers bloom, the birds sing, and I get a fraudulent invoice from “McAfee” for antivirus software I never bought and never wanted. Again.

Let me back up.

It all started innocently enough. I tried to book a one-way JetBlue flight from Palm Beach to New York City. $147—not bad. I clicked through, filled in all the usual fields (name, email, seat preference, favorite childhood memory), and hit “Pay.”

Oops.

That’s literally what it said: “Oops.” A friendly, lowercase tech-glitch shrug from the algorithmic abyss.

No problem, I thought, I’ll just try again. And that’s when the real magic happened: the fare had leapt $200. That’s right—same flight, new price.

I called JetBlue’s service center (definitely not in Palm Beach), and the representative suggested logging back into the app. Apparently, that resets the price—though not in my favor. Now the ticket was just $100 higher. A bargain!

I eventually reached a supervisor who sounded genuinely sympathetic.

“If you had a confirmation number, I might be able to help.”

“That’s the point. It never confirmed.”

“Exactly.”

That kind of circular logic should come with a seat assignment.

Frustrated, I checked another airline. Jackpot: $170! Economy. I began booking—only to discover that choosing a seat would cost another $102. Want to sit together with your spouse? That’ll be $204. Otherwise, enjoy the scenic wheel bay near the luggage. Want to board before the plane takes off? That’s premium now.

But scam season wasn’t over.

That afternoon, I received an urgent text from “Florida Fast Pass” claiming I had unpaid tolls and would face legal prosecution. Imagine the irony: the real Florida Department of Transportation already has direct access to my bank account. I pay extra to drive on I-95—objectively the most terrifying stretch of pavement in the U.S.—and now scammers want in on the action? Good luck.

And just to round things out, another email arrived from McAfee—my sixth fake invoice. I’ve never had this software, I’ve never paid for it, and I’ve confirmed repeatedly that this is a scam. But the email is still persistent. Honestly, I admire the work ethic.

There’s a fine line these days between a scam and a “legitimate surcharge.” Hidden fees, surprise fare hikes, and messages threatening jail time if I don’t pay $23.70—this is the new normal.

The only place where transparency still exists is in the phishing email subject line:

“URGENT: You’re about to be charged!”

Yes. Yes, I am. One way or another.

Travel Mishaps

Fifty-two years ago my dorm roommate and I hitchhiked from the University of Buffalo to        SUNY Albany. Three successive rides found us in the commercial district of Syracuse. As the day passed, the temperature dropped and the cars whizzed by our outstretched hypothermic thumbs. Dejected, we walked to the Bus Station and contemplated our next step. With no time and no money for a round-trip to Albany and back to Buffalo, we bought a one way ticket back to our starting point of Buffalo. We sat down next to a middle aged man in a wrinkled suit and waited for our Greyhound bus. “Is there a decent restaurant around here?” we asked our seatmate. “There is a great Italian restaurant around the corner,” he stated confidently. Pooling our meager resources we sought out the trattoria and ordered a plate of pasta. The spaghetti was served as stiff as straw.  Our resident restaurant critic at the bus station had clearly steered us wrong.

Twenty years later, my hitchhiking days behind me, I drove with a friend to San Francisco. With the passenger seat littered with AAA and Rand McNally maps, my navigator advised staying on I-80 as the Embarcadero came into view.  “On no!”, I muttered, as I realized I was going the wrong way on the LONG Oakland Bay Bridge toward Oakland and was doomed to pay a double toll. 

Undeterred by my past travel mistakes, my family embarked on a European vacation at the turn of the century. My spouse, a capable cartographer and blessed with a directional sense like a passenger pigeon,  assured me that we were not going to get lost. We rented a Renault in Paris, buckled up our two boys,  and set out to discover the continent.  A few miles out  I failed to translate the “sens unique” (one-way sign, not covered in High School French). Sweating profusely, I made an instantaneous U turn and avoided a vacation ending collision. We arrived in Aachen, Germany and entered a museum devoted to Charlemagne. The exhibit explanations were in German with no translation. Ich bin ein Berliner and aufedasein were the extent of our German vocabulary. We detoured to the snack bar to complete the museum experience. That evening we arrived in Strasbourg with a thimble full of gas in the tank. The next morning, I pulled into the gas station, opened the gas tank door and noticed French instruction on the inside door (words, again not covered in High School French). I filled the tank and set off to Switzerland. A few miles onto the highway, the car started to lurch and emit a high pitched moan as I was shifting my manual transmission into 2nd gear. I got off the highway into rush hour Strasbourg traffic when the car led out a cringe worthy groan and stalled. Behind our Renault were at least 50 angry French commuters yelling French words (that again were not covered in High School French class). Later that day, a mechanic, with a cigarette dangling from the corner of his lip, informed me of my error of filling up a diesel engine with regular gas. He muttered some unintelligible French sentences but my rudimentary French picked up some words (stupide: stupid, guignol: clown).

After the ordeal, we decided to recharge with French cuisine. The bill came and I calculated the tip by mentally converting dollars into Francs. I mistakenly used the wrong currency in the calculation and was off by a factor of ten. The waiter was elated by his generous tip and my wallet was a good deal lighter.  I had finished the day with a trifecta of vacation gaffes.

I am now millions of neurons lighter in the 21st century compared with my youthful self but have gained “vacation bonus IQ points” with the advent of smartphone technology. Currency converters keep tabs on the foreign exchange markets by the nanosecond.  Apple and Google Maps keep me on track and down the right one way streets. I was cruising in the Mojave Desert on I-15 last week and the app warned of an accident (truck on fire) halting all traffic for 2 hours. As the temperatures soared in the desert, I placed a  call to the California Highway Patrol.   The California Highway Patrol representative asked, “ What lane are you in?”  “The far left lane,” I answered. “Stay in that lane. We just opened up that lane 60 seconds ago and you should be good.” Seconds later, the cars started to inch forward and we made our way past the accident. It was highway nirvana. 

Language barriers have fallen. Despite English ubiquity, Google Translate helped convert German menus, German museum placards and German signs into understandable jargon.  Impractical high school French classes devoid of real life vocabulary are no longer  dangerously impactful. Choosing a restaurant no longer requires a recommendation from a fellow bus passenger.  Today, Yelp, Google and TripAdvisor have us covered wherever we go in the world. 

 In May of this year, we took a trip through Eastern Europe for almost a month without a hitch.  I relied heavily on my technology loaded Iphone, T-Mobile cell towers and an occasional friendly recommendation from an equally tech savvy European citizen.  But travels would not be travels without mishaps that many times end up being memorable happy accidents.  The proof:  many years later these are the stories my family and I speak of and write about.

I am still recovering from my Diesel Mishap but encouraged to know that fossil fuels are in the rear view mirror and electric vehicles in the future will have only one plug to choose from. 

I

Peering into the Past and Future: Riding Down the Rhine and Danube

It was time to travel despite a war in Eastern Europe, runaway inflation, political turmoil and exploding Omicron SARS-CoV2 variants. With a KN-95 mask, COVID antigen tests and $50 worth of digital guidebooks in hand, we boarded a river boat to glide upstream down the Rhine, Mein and Danube, from Amsterdam to Budapest  to find history, fine spirits and the origins of ancestor’s past. 

We were going to the edge of civilization, as the Romans had defined it circa 2000 years ago. The Rhine and Danube were the North and Eastern boundaries of the empire, warding off the barbarians, the Goths, Vandals, Visigoths and Franks. The Franks had plundered Eastern and Western Europe, united under Charlemagne and eventually (?with the help of intermarriage and French wine) settled down in France so their ancestors could appreciate fine architecture, food and Jerry Lewis.

 The tragedies of history were retold by guides, museums and historical plaques as the craft dodged buoys and passed feudal castles. In Amsterdam, Cologne, Regensburg, Vienna, Rothenburg, Bratislava and Budapest were military monuments, holocaust memorials, mass graves, ramparts and moats, museum artifacts, artillery and ballistic impacts on stone walls that testified to perpetual war and oppression from the Middle Ages onward. The grievances are engraved in our schoolbooks: Romans v. Barbarians, Christians v. Arabs (Crusades 1-4), Protestants v. Catholics (30 Years War and others), Ottoman Empire v. “Civilized” Europe, Habsburgs v. National Uprisings in the mid nineteenth Century, Prussian Wars of the late 19th century.  The 20th century brought us World Wars I and II ending the Holy Roman and Ottoman Empires and Hitler and the Third Reich at the expense of over 60 million lives.

As we headed South and East along the Rivers, I encountered glimpses of my Jewish heritage. The Jewish Diaspora from antiquity forced migration from Western to Eastern Europe along the Rhine and Danube. Jews were  multilingual merchants, bridging the Arab and European divide and helping to create the trade routes from Asia, Africa and Europe. They were artisans in the pre-industrial world and creators of the financial world that allowed the development of city-states. Judaism financed the release of Richard the Lion Hearted of England’s release from captivity and paid for the defense of Vienna against Ottoman Invasion in the 17th century. Yet, each town’s history was marked by the same recurring theme: Jewish expulsion and persecution.

Tragedy often begets opportunity. Science, medicine and art blossomed along these European river tributaries. Booerhaave, the Dutch physician, organized hospital divisions, defined pathology and described his eponymous esophageal rupture syndrome. Dicke, an Amsterdam physician, recognized  abdominal pain and diarrhea in Dutch children reintroduced to bread following privations of World War II and described celiac disease. Down the Rhine at Erlangen, Germany, Demling and Classen devised a modified electrified wire passed through an endoscope and allowed non surgical removal of bile duct stones in a jaundiced nurse in 1973, introducing therapeutic biliary endoscopy to the world. Wilhelm Conrad Rontgen, discoverer of X rays, taught on the Mein River at Wurzburg in the late 19th century. Sigmund Freud’s psychoanalysis treatise and practice was a part of 1890’s Vienna. Laszlo Biro from Budapest, invented the ballpoint pen and freed the world from fountain pen leakage.

Music flourished along the river, providing the world with the classics from Mahler, Mozart, Beethoven and Liszt.

 History was infused in everything we saw and consumed. I ate herring in Amsterdam as the Dutch West India Company sailors did before traveling to Nieuw Amsterdam and quaffed Riesling from The Rhine Valley from Middle Age monastery vineyards. A McDonalds and statues of Ronald Reagan and George Bush in Budapest were symbols of who won the Cold War. 

The realities of the past portend the fragility of peace for the future. The murmurs from these ancient rivers give us pause to respect and cherish our freedoms. 

Traveling In Pandemic Times

My parents provided me with the usual survival tactics in childhood: “don’t put your finger in the electric socket; “don’t play stickball in a busy street;” “look both ways when crossing the street;” “put a jacket on to prevent pneumonia.” But no pandemic advice. My father, born in 1921, had missed out on the Great Influenza pandemic by 3 years. He survived the depression, World War II, the Korean War, The Cold War and Stagflation, but he had no pandemic real world experience. 

Mastering COVID avoidance was easy. I didn’t go out the front door. I wiped down every delivery with Clorox wipes. I interrogated delivery workers at the front door from 6 feet away. I masked up and social distanced with friends who took science and survival seriously. My only brush with the outside world was beamed in with cable news and internet pictures.

With viral mRNA inoculated twice into my arm, the lure of travel beckoned and with it the reality and trepidation of return to the unknown. What would airports, big cities, seeing friends and family be like after a monastic-like life for almost a year?

Armed with an  N95, surgical mask and face shield barrier, I pushed the UBER request on my app for a ride to the airport. “Please roll down the front and back windows for cross ventilation,” I directed the driver, thinking viral kinetics and air exchange. He didn’t blink an eye. At the airport, Homeland Security officers donned face shields and stood behind window barriers. Driver license identity was self-swiped at a distance. The Starbuck’s line imprints on the floor were spaced 6 feet apart and baristas looked like they were part of a surgical OR team. Sipping coffee, a learned skill honed in the past, became a conundrum when faced with two masks blocking the oral route. Should I slip the masks down or up? Should I replace the mask after each sip? Should I take the masks off completely? Should I just gulp the coffee quickly and then replace the mask? Thoughts of Dr. Fauci and the CDC flashed through my head: 10 minutes of exposure, high viral load, ventilation and symptomatic patients. I headed to the far reaches of the airport terminal, separated myself from the unmasked masses, and bolted the coffee down, nearly incurring mouth burns.

Boarding the plane entered me into a strange world. The cheap seats in the back of the plane got first dibs on boarding to limit contact time. Finally, seated, I breathed a sigh of relief when the hotly debated middle seat vacancy was enforced. Anxiety returned, as the flight attendants distributed the snacks. Was it worth unmasking for a granola bar and a small package of chips? The lure of Pringles was too great and I succumbed to temptation, all the while contemplating my eulogy, “he gave his life for a a few plain potato chips.” 

The plane hovered over LaGuardia Airport awaiting the final approach. Built on a garbage dump used for Brooklyn’s excess waste, I pondered the early Queen’s denizens grappling over their microbe challenge: Salmonella and Shigella. The plane landed, the  gate opened and I marched single file, 6 feet apart, masked and into the terminal where multiple, camouflaged clad military awaited me. Did I take the wrong flight and land in Mogadishu, Somalia? No, New York City, where Andrew Cuomo’s quarantine rules were being enforced against the blasé non-Northeastern states where I was now residing. It seemed surreal to be approached by a military serviceman and servicewoman who were both armed with weapons and asked if I had a Covid 19 PCR test performed in the last 72 hours, and if so, what was the result? Things had changed.

After claiming my luggage, I entered a NYC taxi cab to the final push to Manhattan. As I gazed upon the the facial scowl of our driver, I thought it best not to bring up the cross ventilation directions again. As I entered FDR Drive, I fixated on the credit card swipe. Can COVID exist on the card? Can I Clorox the gap? “What would Dr. Fauci do?”

Walking in Manhattan, I could immediately sense the gravity and public health compliance of the borough. This pandemic was not some abstract chyron endlessly streaming on a CNN telecast. Families and friends had been stricken with serious illness and death at the beginning of the pandemic and this crystallized the importance of public health measures. Multiple restaurants had outdoor seating ensconced within a plastic dome. At night, the yellow and purple lighting from restaurant isolation tables provided an extra-terrestrial feel. 

The ordeal was worth it after ending a year absence from family. Hugging my fully vaccinated son and and elbow bumping my unvaccinated son and daughter-in-law in the social distancing expanse of Prospect Park (thank you ,Frederick Law Olmstead) was priceless.

Many years from now, when my grandchildren gather around me and ask about the Pandemic, I’ll reply, you have to carefully peel off your N-95 mask just like this, and then get the Starbucks lid under the face shield that protects your mask and..…”

Portland Exposed

Asian Dumplings from Afuri Ramen and Dumplings

Xylophone Recital at the Trailblazer Game

Multnomah Falls

One of the perks of retirement is opening up a map, seeing a destination you’ve never been to and then booking it. I had never been to Portland and was curious if it’s reputation as a city of second chances, a foodie haven, a city planning Mecca or a hiking haven was reality. So with the help of Costco Travel Services, I journeyed to the Pacific Northwest for a fact finding mission. 

After touching down at the Portland Airport, the expected nightmare of big city surface transportation began. Would it be Uber/Lyft at a cost approaching the price of the plane ticket or a New York City Taxi $80-$100 price from JFK/Newark to Manhattan? To my surprise, the trip to the inner city involved use of the ubiquitous light rail (MAX). At $1.25 for a senior citizen and $2.50 for an adult it allowed a stress free ½ hour commute close to the doorstep of our hotel in downtown Portland. The light rail went about to every important destination in the city environs. The Embassy Suites was our destination abode. Formerly, The Multnomah Hotel, it had hosted the iconic Elvis Presley, Charles Lindbergh and all presidents from Teddy Roosevelt to Richard Nixon.

The sign “Keep Portland Weird” was a few blocks from the hotel and it wasn’t long before I encountered support for its message. It was on a subsequent rail experience, an elderly male with a thinning hairline and walker entered our car clutching a flask of vodka. “I honor the Ten Commandments but I can’t love my neighbor more than myself,” he exclaimed as he swigged from his flask. A dark haired man with an earring engaged him in debate of the Ten Commandments, later joined by a guy carting a bicycle on the train who also participated. As the vodka bottle was passed around to the discussants, I realized I was witnessing a Portland exclusive.

The cuisine in downtown Portland was eclectic but stellar. As craft beer had revitalized the brewing industry, Voodoo Donuts had the imprimatur of craft donuts. I went into dessert nirvana with “Old Dirty Bastard,” a donut with fudge and peanut butter capped with an Oreo-cookie dusting. The dumplings at Afuri Ramen and Dumpling, a Tokyo based Ramen restaurant were also divine. The noodle experience was accompanied with a peak into the future because artificial intelligent iPads substituted for waiters. 

To our delight, the Trailblazers were at home hosting the San Antonio Spurs in our second day in Portland. I had always wondered why my Lakers had such a difficult time in Portland, even when they had championship caliber teams. A trip to the Moda Center provided some clues. It was a Thursday night and the place was packed. A portly fan two rows up started a “Let’s Go Blazers” chant well before the singing of the national anthem. The crowd was warmed up with a swarm of 5th graders playing rhythm xylophone followed by the governor of Oregon presenting a certificate of appreciation to the team on its 50th year anniversary. The game was close and the fans were so vocal it felt like game 7 of the NBA Finals. On our light rail trip back to the hotel, a long term fan explained the phenomena in personal terms. “I’m a recovering alcoholic, been sober for 7 years and a ticket holder that long. The basketball team is all we have.” 

As a neophyte Portland tourist, the next stop was a popular destination, the Pittock Mansion. This was an early 20th century home built by Henry Pittock, the successful editor of the Oregonian. Overlooking the Williamette River and surrounded by Oregonian Pines, it was a beacon of 20th century ingenuity and a magnificent home. While I was wandering past the fine silks, wondered how a newspaper editor could amass a fortune. I came across a clue. Henry Winslow Corbett, the senator from Oregon, had provided a cash infusion to the paper in 1872 averting bankruptcy and temporarily taking control of the city newspaper. Corbett made his initial fortune by selling farm equipment and dry goods to the farmers and families newly arrived from the Oregon Trail. When the San Francisco merchants raised their prices during the California Gold Rush, Corbett was able to undercut their prices and achieve market share. You could say he was the Pacific Northwest Walmart of the 19th century! He used the paper’s influence to back  the successful campaign of Rutherford B. Hayes, the Republican candidate for President in 1876. With political influence, both Corbett and Pittock went on to amass a fortune in banking and real estate.

The Portland experience was not complete until we took an excursion down the Columbia River Gorge. Multiple waterfalls grace the shoulders of the Columbia River Scenic Highway. We stopped at the 627 foot Multnomah Falls, the largest waterfall in Oregon. It was spotted by Lewis and Clark in 1805 and does not disappoint. Hiking was challenging during the winter due to muddy trails but swathed in a conifer blanket, the ascent was still exhilarating.

If natural beauty, great food, a workable transit system and NBA basketball is your thing, I encourage you to seek out the Portland high.